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Overview of Skin & Function
- The make up of skin
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Skin Care
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Cleansers
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Toners and Astringents
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Exfoliating
- Moisturizers
- Eye Creams
- Antioxidants
- Nutrition and Skin
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Antioxidants and Skin
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B-complex Vitamins and Skin
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Essential Fatty Acids and Skin
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Multi-vitamins
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Healthy Eating
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Detoxification
- The Importance of Collagen and Elastin
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Popular Product Ingredients
Overview of your Skin and its Function
Your skin is your largest organ of your body, performing several functions, including protecting us from invasion by foreign substances and serving as the transfer point for the release of toxins from our bodies by perspiration and sweat. Your skin accounts for 15% of your body weight. It is composed of 70% water, 25% protein, 2% lipids . the remainder is trace minerals and other chemicals. Our skin is also porous, which means it absorbs many of the substances with which it comes into contact. This is why we must use quality, nontoxic products that can be absorbed into the skin.
The skin provides an honest mirror of our inner health and well being. How we feel on the inside is reflected on how we look on the outside. Consider that when we eat a great deal of fatty foods or foods to which we are allergic, our skin is often the first indicator that we have mistreated ourselves. On the other hand, when we have been eating healthily and enjoying plenty of fresh water and exercise, our skin exhibits a healthy glow that is indicative of the attention we are paying to ourselves.
Several factors affect our skin and promote the aging process. As the normal aging process occurs your skin will grow thinner, produce less oil and show wrinkles. Collagen and elastin break down causing loss of elasticity. Fat stores beneath the skin shift resulting in changes in the cheeks, neck, jaw, and eye area. Most people begin to experience aging in the eye area first due to lack of oil glands around the eyes.
In order to look good and stay healthy, ALWAYS WEAR SUNSCREEN! Drink plenty of WATER. If you take your body weight and divide in half that is the amount of ounces of water you should drink daily. DON'T EVER SMOKE OR DRINK. Other things that will help are to get plenty of sleep, exercise regularly, and watch what you eat.
An important part of any skin care maintenance program involves the use of a qualified, experienced aesthetician. Our objective at Helen's Haven is to have you look good and feel good. Facials are important to maintain the integrity of the outer layers of skin and keep the pores clean in order to prevent oily buildup and cyst formation. Facials can also hydrate and protect dry, dehydrated skin. Facials are also relaxing for the mind and body.
A Helen's Haven facial is the beginning of improved, younger looking skin. To experience even more dramatic results combine your facial with LightLift™ LED treatments, BioRenu™ Skin Rejuvination System, Power Peel™ Microdermbrasion, or Cellex-C™ Sonic Youth Therapy. To keep you looking good all the time, Helen's Haven offers a variety of home care products.
The skin consists of three layers; the epidermis, the dermis and subcutaneous tissue.
The epidermis:
The outer layer is called the epidermis. This is the skin that you, and everyone else, see first. This is where skin cells are produced. Your skin cells are constantly renewing themselves. Cells push up from the bottom of the epidermis to the outermost layer. In younger women this takes about two weeks. As we age, this process can take twice as long. A healthy adult skin completely renews itself in 3 - 5 weeks.
The stratum corneum is the top layer of the epidermis and is where the moisture content of the skin is regulated. This layer is the brick and mortar of the skin. The "brick" is the keratin, a protein that provides structure to the skin. The lipids are the "mortar" between the bricks of keratin.
Another group of cells in the epidermis are called melanocytes. These cells are the pigment producing cells responsible for skin tone and color.
The total thickness of the epidermis is about 0.5 - 1 mm.
The dermis:
The dermis is the thicker layer underneath the epidermis. This is the thickest layer of the skin. This is where collagen and elastin are located. Collagen and elastin keep your skin firm and flexible.
The key type of cells in the dermis is fibroblasts, which synthesize collagen, elastin and other structural molecules. The proper function of fibroblasts is highly important for overall skin health.
The dermis also houses capillaries important for oxygenating and nourishing the skin. The lymph nodes (clusters of immune cells) contained in the dermis protect the skin from invading microorganisms.
The dermis also contains sebaceous glands, sweat glands, hair follicles and a small number of nerves and muscle cells.
Wrinkles develop in the dermis. Any anti-wrinkle treatment has to penetrate this layer of skin. Ingredients in skin care products have to be able to penetrate to this layer of skin. Typical collagen and elastin creams, for example, never reach the dermis because the molecules in the creams are too large to penetrate. These creams may feel good on the surface but are not helping diminish wrinkles.
The Subcutaneous tissue:
This is the innermost layer of skin. It is located under the dermis and consist mostly of fat. Subcutaneous fat acts as a shock absorber and heat insulator, protecting underlying tissues from cold and trauma.
The loss of subcutaneous tissue, often occurring with age, leads to facial sag and accentuates wrinkles.
Studies are currently being done on this adipose (fat) tissue and its role in the body.
Your skin is the largest organ of your body. The outer layer is called the epidermis. This is the skin that you, and everyone else, see first. This is where skin cells are produced. Your skin cells are constantly renewing themselves. Cells push up from the bottom of the epidermis to the outermost layer. In younger women this takes about two weeks. As we age, this process can take twice as long.
The dermis is the thicker layer underneath the epidermis. This is where collagen and elastin are located. Collagen and elastin keep your skin firm and flexible.
Several factors affect our skin and promote the aging process. As the normal aging process occurs your skin will grow thinner, produce less oil and show wrinkles. Collagen and elastin break down causing loss of elasticity. Fat stores beneath the skin shift resulting in changes in the cheeks, neck, jaw, and eye area. Most people begin to experience aging in the eye area first due to lack of oil glands around the eyes.
In order to look good and stay healthy ALWAYS WEAR SUNSCREEN! Drink plenty of WATER. If you take your body weight and divide in half, that is the amount of ounces of water you should drink daily. DON'T EVER SMOKE OR DRINK. Other things that will help are to get plenty of sleep, exercise regularly, and watch what you eat.
Foaming and gel cleansers—These are good for normal to oily skin. Be aware that some ingredients in these cleansers can be drying to some people.
Cleansing milks and lotions—These are usually better for drier, more sensitive skins.
As a general rule, unless you have very dry skin, your cleanser should be water based and rinsed off with water.
If you wear a foundation with a heavy coverage, you may want to wash your face twice at night to ensure cleanliness. Always wash your face day & night.
Toners and Astringents
Toners—These are non-alcohol based products. They may be witch hazel or even water based.
Astringents—Astringents are usually alcohol based and are only for oily, acne prone skin.
Toners and astringents help ensure that your skin is really clean and leaves the skin Ph balanced. This helps all the other products you may use after penetrate better.
Exfoliating
Loofahs and the like—Please be gentle to your skin. Loofahs may be used on the tougher skin of the body, but not the face. Use only soft products on your skin.
Exfoliating masks—These are applied on the skin and washed off after a few minutes. This is good for normal or sensitive skin.
Facial scrubs—Exercise caution is using these. Scrubs contain tiny particles that loosen dead skin. If used too often or are too harsh, scrubs may cause broken capillaries and irritation.
AHA's—Alpha Hydroxy Acids are fruit acids that exfoliate dead skin. These are natural acids found in cleansers, lotions, toners and masks.
Glycolic Acid—This is an AHA, but instead of fruit glycolic acid is made from sugar cane. The molecules in the sugar cane are smaller than in the fruit acids. That means glycolic acid penetrates deeper into the skin to do a more aggressive exfoliating job. Glycolic acid may be drying at first for some.
Vitamin A—This includes Retin-A and Renova. These require a prescription from a doctor and can be irritating to sensitive or dry skin. Vitamin A solutions also may leave you sun sensitive.
Moisturizers
In general the difference between a day cream and a night cream is that the day cream is more protective. It may contain sunscreen and other ingredients that protect against pollution and stress. A night cream is usually more emollient. It may have ingredients that promote healing and cellular renewal.
If you are on the dry side you may want a moisturizer that contains oils, such as jojoba oil, macadamia oil, or squalane oil.
If you're acne prone, look for an oil free gel.
For a normal skin, lightweight water based products work well. You can look for something with hyaluronic acid. This ingredient forms a water binding film on the skin's surface.
I always recommend day cream with sunscreen in them.
The skin under the eye is the most sensitive part of the face. The eye area has no oil glands, leaving it drier and more sensitive.
Eye cream—This soothes the area. It is essential to use an eye cream daily to keep your eyes looking smooth and younger.
Eye gel—These gels are usually better for under eye puffiness than hydrating.
Antioxidants
The most common antioxidants include vitamin A, C, & E. Antioxidants help stabilize free radicals, unstable molecules that age the skin and may cause internal damage.
Vitamin C is one of the newer topical answers to aging. Vitamin C has been shown to penetrate the skin and help produce collagen. There are over 350 forms of Vitamin C, but the most stable form is L'ascorbic acid. It needs to be delivered in a low Ph. 5% percent of L'ascorbic acid is equivalent to 50 times more than the Vitamin C found in oranges.
It would be naive to think that you can eat whatever you want without it affecting your skin and body. While we can't wipe out aging all together, experts believe that a good, complete vitamin program can affect the skin. It has been proven that vitamin deficiencies can make the skin dry, blotchy, lifeless or oily. Scientific studies now support the use of supplementation to slow the aging process. I believe in the use of topical vitamins, such as vitamin C. However, a high potency multi-vitamin and mineral is essential for overall health and appearance.
In this section I will explain how vitamins can improve your appearance. I am not a doctor or a nutritional expert. I will share things that I have studied and read. I hope this will help you in your quest to look good and feel good. Consult your physician before taking any vitamin supplements.
You have probably heard of free radicals, but what are they? They are unstable compounds that create havoc in our bodies. They have an innate need to stabilize so they steal an electron from other cells in your body, including your skin. That action causes the healthy cell to become unstable. Scientists now believe this is the cause of premature aging and diseases associated with aging, such as cancers etc. Free radicals are everywhere, in the food we eat (especially processed foods with chemicals and pesticides) and the skin gets bombarded even more by sunlight and pollutants.
There is help: antioxidants help to combat these free radicals and slow the aging process
Vitamin A: A lack of vitamin A can cause rough, dry, fragile skin. Vitamin A may also prevent sun damage. The main food sources of vitamin A are eggs, organ meats and whole milk dairy products. Topical vitamin A has been proven to improve acne and wrinkles.
Vitamin C: Vitamin C is important for the synthesis of collagen in the skin. A deficiency in vitamin C can reduce the skin resilience and ability to heal. There is evidence that topical vitamin C can help produce collagen and rejuvenate the skin. For more information see our section on Cellex-C™ .
Vitamin E: Vitamin E is a fat soluble antioxidant. It protects cellular membranes, lipoproteins and other “oily” substances. Vitamin E may aid in prevention of skin damage from the environment. The skin can benefit from this vitamin both internally and topically.
Vitamin D: Vitamin D is formed in the body by an interaction with sunlight. It has been shown to help in treatment of psoriasis. It is considered antioxidant and anitcarcinogenic. It can not be absorbed by the skin, so it does nothing topically.
Selenium: Selenium aids in the synthesis of prostaglandin hormones that affect the smoothness and texture of the skin. A deficiency has been associated with eczema and psoriasis.
Zinc: Zinc helps regenerate skin cells, reduces inflammation, and aids in wound healing. It also is necessary for oil gland function and local skin hormone activation. Zinc has been used to successfully treat acne, eczema and psoriasis.
Lipoic Acid: Lipoic Acid is both water and fat soluble. It is capable of protecting all the body tissues. It is effective against most types of free radicals. It also has the benefit of lowering blood sugar, making it an inhibitor of glycation and cross-linking (both play roles in causing wrinkles).
Coenzyme Q10: CoQ10 is an essential part of the cellular respiration system and an antioxidant. It protects against free radicals and increases the rate and efficiency of energy production in the cells. The studies of CoQ10 and the skin are limited.
The term B-complex usually refers to a group of B vitamins — B1 (Thiamine), B2 (riboflavin), B3 (niacin), B5 (pantothenate) B6 (pyridoxine), B12 (cyancobalamine), and folate
Vitamin B1 and B2: Both are critical for cellular energy production. A deficiency can lead to dermatitis, especially around the nose and corners of the mouth.
Vitamin B3: Niacin (B3) increases the cellular energy needed for cells to repair free radical damage. It has been known to slow photo aging and skin damage. It may prevent cancerous changes in skin cells.
Vitamin B6 and B2: Both of these are factors in the synthesis of prostaglandin hormones that determine the smoothness and texture of the skin (similar to selenium). A deficiency will cause dry, rough skin.
Vitamin B12: B12 is essential for a variety of processes in the cells. A deficiency is detrimental to rapidly dividing cells. Vitamin B12 has been used to treat psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis.
Essential Fatty Acids and Skin
Most of us avoid anything that says "fatty". These are called essential for a reason. Your body needs EFA's, but your body does not produce them, so we must get them from an outside source. The fast foods and fried foods we eat do not qualify as essential fatty acids, just fat!
EFA's will improve your skin, whether it is oily or dry. Do not confuse an Essential Fatty Acid with some kind of oily fatty substance that will make your skin oily. It will help balance your skin and help it retain a youthful quality. Acneic skin needs EFA's to repair damaged cells and dissolve fatty deposits that block pores.
If you suffer form either eczema or psoriasis I encourage you to try EFA's. I have seen great results.
EFA's are broken down into two categories, Omega 3 and Omega 6.
Omega 3 EFA's are found in fresh deepwater fish, fish oil and certain vegetable oils such as canola, flaxseed, and walnut.
Omega 6 EFA's are found in raw nuts, seeds, legumes, grape seed oil, primrose oil, sesame oil and soybean oil.
The evidence of the beneficial effects of EFA's is staggering, from helping your skin, to your heart, to your brain, increasing oxygen in your body and much more.
My advice on buying vitamins is to check the label to see if it meets your needs. Not every person is biologically the same. No one formula will work for everyone. I believe that a good multivitamin will require you to take more than a one a day dose. Number one, water soluble vitamins don't stay in your system that long. Number two in order to have a complete day's worth of vitamins and minerals that you need the pills would be too big to swallow!
I believe in taking natural and organic vitamins, and eating organic food as much as possible. We don't need any extra pesticides, chemicals or hormones being introduced into our bodies.
Taking supplements is great but not a substitute for eating right. Here are some simple steps to eating better. When I changed my eating habits and started taking supplements I lost weight and my skin looks better. I have kept the extra 20 lbs. off for almost two years.
- Limit bread, pasta and rice.Many people have wheat sensitivities that they don't know about. It can aggravate conditions such as acne, psoriasis or eczema.
- Eat more fruit and veggies.
- Drink filtered water.I have become a water snob.If you ever have tested the water you drink or looked at your pipes and all the rust etc, you will immediately purchase a water treatment system. Cut back on caffeine. That means coffee and soda.I have a water treatment system under my sink at the salon, at home in my kitchen, in the bathroom, and the shower!
- Cut back on dairy.
- Cut back, or better yet, eliminate sugar. Let's dispel one myth — I ate chocolate last night and now I have a pimple! Not true!!This is a controversial subject, but there is no definitive proof that sugar causes acne, but it may be a contributing factor. However, sugar is definitely a cause of weight gain. If you are sensitive to sugar you can take chromium to help improve glucose tolerance and it may improve acne if sugar is a factor.
There are three organs in the body responsible for eliminating waste and toxins — the liver, kidneys and the skin. If the liver and kidneys are overwhelmed, the skin will take over. This is one of the reasons acne can increase. Other reasons include hormone changes and stress.
You can try taking milk thistle to cleanse your liver. If you suffer from constipation increase the fiber in your diet, by supplements if need be. The main thing is to release toxins so your whole body, inside and outside, can be healthier.
The Importance of Collagen and Elastin
Collagen, composed of amino acids, is a protein forming the structural grid that holds other skin structures together in the dermis. It gives the skin its strength and durability. It is primarily composed of a few specific amino acids, proline, hydroxyproline, lysine and glycine. Some experts believe that foods or supplements rich in these amino acids may benefit the skin by stimulating collagen production. There is a number of topical ways to stimulate collagen production, including topical vitamin C and copper peptides. Increasing collagen production is important because age-related decline in the collagen synthesis is partly responsible for the signs of skin aging such as thinning, wrinkles and sagging.
Elastin is also a protein. It is more pliable than collagen and helps maintain skin resilience and elasticity. Elastin contains two special amino acids, desmosine and isodesmonsine. When both elastin and collagen and abundant and healthy, the skin easily regains its shape after being stretched or folded. Just as collagen, elastin deteriorates with age, leading to wrinkles and facial sag.
The following is a list of common ingredients that clients ask about. Please understand that there are no absolute miracles in a jar. Some products may show signs of reversing the aging process. I believe that many products, used consistently, may not reverse aging but certainly will reduce its further progression. If you have a specific question please feel free to email. This is not meant to be a complete list but rather a list to help you purchase the correct products for yourself and a look at some of the more popular ingredients available today.
Alpha-hydroxy acids
These are non-toxin, non-chemical substances found in certain foods, including grapes, citrus fruits, apples, sugar cane and sour milk. Glycolic acid, lactic acid, and malic acid are popular ingredients you will see on packaging. Glycolic acid is an AHA and is made from sugar cane. The molecules in the sugar cane are smaller than than the fruit, so when you use glycolic acid you get a deeper peel. AHA's in general cause the skin cells to shed faster getting rid of build up.
Alpha lipoic acid
This is a potent and versatile antioxidant. It is very popular right now due to the book "The Wrinkle Cure" but the studies are limited and ongoing. Within the next five years this may become a mainstay for fighting wrinkles because it is less irritating than tretinoin (Retin A etc) and hydroxyl acids.
Coenzyme Q10
Every cell in your body needs this coenzyme. This helps your cells produce energy they need to function. In our skin, this helps produce collagen and elastin and helps the lipids that keep the skin hydrated. This is another powerful antioxidant, but to date studies are still inconclusive about the effect of CoQ10 as an ingredient in skin creams. However, as a supplement it is great!
Copper peptides
Peptides are small fragments of proteins. Certain kinds of peptides have an avid affinity for copper, to which they bind very tightly. The resulting compound consisting of a peptide and a copper atom has become known as a copper peptide. Copper peptide has been proved to promote wound healing. It appears that copper peptide can help minimize the damage from daily wear and tear of the skin. It remains unclear whether copper peptides can reverse wrinkles and other signs of aging in the intact skin. Most of the studies have been on damaged skin for wound repair. This looks very promising for topical use and anti-aging treatments.
DHEA
This is an antioxidant. It helps wounds heal faster.
DMAE
It has been demonstrated that DMAE may help in skin tightening. It is still being studied but it may help the cells by strengthening the membranes of the cell.
Glycerin
This is an emollient and lubricant. It can draw moisture from the air to the skin.
Grape seed extract
Grape seed is rich in bioflavonoids called OPC's (oliogomeric proanthocyanidins) which fight free radical damage to the elastin in our skin. It can strength capillaries, promote wound healing and helps decrease bruising.
Green tea extract
A powerful antioxidant, green tea helps support the collagen and lipids in the skin. This can help neutralize free radicals and keep the skin looking soft and supple. It also has anti-inflammatory properties.
Hydroquinone
Over the counter products can have strength of 1 -2 %. Prescription strength can be up to 8%. Hydroquinone is a tyrosinase inhibitor that inhibits the production of melanin. This is in skin lightening products. This can cause skin irritation and should be used at night and use of sunscreen during the day is a must.
Retin A and Renova
These are both brands of tretinoin. Topical Retin A and Renova are some of very few substances whose anti-aging effects on the skin have been documented in many well-designed studies. Retin A and Renova were found to reduce fine wrinkles and skin roughness, increase epidermal thickness and stimulate deposition of collagen. If you are interested in this talk to your doctor, but understand that skin irritation and sun sensitivity can be side effects.
Retinols are the less irritating ingredient and available in a number of products. If you go to a salon for any type of facial waxing, please discontinue use of these products a few days before. I have seen people react with waxing and retinol products.
Titanium dioxide
This is an inert mineral and is great for sun protection. It is a sunblock (reflects the sun). It is excellent for people with sensitivities to sunscreen.
